My main focus are faceups, body blushing and fantasy parts – though I will do mods, and some tattoos, if I feel up to the project. See the “Prices” page for a full list. Feel free to email me at email@example.com if you’re wondering about something not listed.
- I DO NOT WORK ON RECASTS. I have a zero-tolerance policy for recasts.
- I do not paint completely black dolls (like Soom Shonki), Iplehouse ebony or darker, DollShe dark tan, Kaye Wiggs dark tan, or similar super dark skin tones, as I have always had sealant and paint issues with those colors. Sorry! >.<
- I will not copy another artist’s faceup work, nor a previous faceup done by me. THAT SAID – every sculpt has limitations, and if two customers have similar preferences and wishes, sometimes dolls end up looking similar even if that was not the intention. I will do my best to keep track of everything. If you have permission from another owner to have your doll painted similarly to theirs, that is fine.
- I will not paint any of the Volks DWC heads (DWC#01, #02, or #03).
- I do not currently paint vinyl fashion dolls (Barbie, Disney, Gene, Tonner etc) on a commission basis.
- Eye openings on fully closed/sleeping eyes (except Unoa because their lids are very thin).
- Facial sanding of any kind except to repair minor damage.
- Seam sanding.
- I will not edit (add to or alter) an existing faceup unless it was done by me
- Anime-style faceups or Dollfie Dream faceups. It’s simply not my specialty.
- Vinyl dolls like Barbie or Monster High. I paint these for fun and will occasionally sell them in my Etsy shop. 🙂
3. Materials I use:
For faceups, I use various artist-grade pastels, Liquitex and Zoukei-Mura acrylics, Zoukei-Mura thinner, various shimmer powders, Folk Art matte gloss and Tamiya gloss. I seal with MSC UV Cut on lighter skin tones and Zoukei-Mura powder spray on tan skin tones. For fantasy parts and some body blushing I use an Iwata airbrush with Createx and ComArt paints. For mods, I use Tamiya apoxy putty. I use airbrush paint and pastels to match the skin tone as closely as possible. Please keep in mind that the resin match will not be 100% perfect, but it will be very very close. To remove old faceups, I use 100% pure, colorless acetone for lighter skin tones, and Winsor&Newton brush cleaner for darker skin tones.
4. My faceup style:
My policy is to try to give you exactly what you want in a faceup or mod. Certain touches could be called my “style”, and my faceups are not 100% symmetrical, neither are my mods, nor do I think they should be. Really, no two dolls who leave my house should be exactly the same. Eyelashes, blush, lips, it all varies depending on your wishes and your doll’s character. Knowing the doll’s personality is a priority for me! Let me know what you are envisioning, be it simple or crazy, and I will do my best to bring your ideas, and your doll, to life! ^_^
THAT SAID – Sometimes, two people ask for very similar things, and sculpts only hold so much potential to be different from each other. If two people want the same color scheme and expression on the same sculpt, they’re going to get it. Unless it is something utterly unique and recognizable, I don’t consider this copying.
ABOUT IMPERFECTIONS: Like mentioned above, I am only human and nothing I do is 100% symmetrical. Also, I do my very best to pick out any dust that might end up on the head with a pin, but sometimes it is unavoidable that a tiny fleck remains if it gets caught in the sealant. I promise your head won’t be covered in fuzz, but please understand that 100% perfection is just about impossible.
1. Commission opening times:
Slots open on or around the 1st of the month for the coming month – for example, June 1st I will start filling July slots, so that by the end of June I will have all the dolls and payments for July in hand. I announce here on the website, on facebook, and on flickr when commissions are open.
Commissions are open on a month-to-month, first-come-first-serve basis. In other words, there won’t be a wait list beyond one month into the future. This is for my own sanity, and to minimize flaking.
Once commissions are open, do the following:
PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU HAVE YOUR DOLL AND PAYMENT IN HAND.
Please send me an email to firstname.lastname@example.org with the following application form:
1. Your real name and your username/nickname
2. What service(s) are you looking for?
3. How many dolls?
4. What head size (wig size in inches) are the dolls?
5. Brand and sculpt
6. Resin color
7. Any special markings/tattoos?
8. Extensive freckles (more than a few over the nose)?
9. Skin texturing?
10. Facial hair?
11. If it’s a faceup, will you need a previous faceup removed?
12. If it’s a faceup, will you need eyelashes applied?
13. Will you provide your own eyelashes?
14. Where are you located?
15. How much insurance (amount in USD) would you like for the way back?
I will then reply to you to confirm your slot.
There is a separate form to be filled out for fantasy parts, you can find it >>>HERE<<<
PLEASE NOTE: Being the first to email me does not guarantee your doll will be the first to be worked on. Within the month, I don’t work on dolls in any specific order – it’s what fits into my schedule.
You can send me up to 4 heads (or equivalent work load, I will let you know) per slot.
The application form
Any special notes or questions (damage, mods, special projects, tattoos etc….)
Your doll. 😉
Your commission details form
Please disclose any damage your doll might have – If your doll is damaged, please let me know about it when you contact me for a commission, preferably with a picture of the damage. I don’t mind fixing the doll before I paint it, but I need to know what the damage is so I can organize my time and possibly charge you for it if it’ll be a difficult repair. More importantly, I need to know that you are aware of the damage so I don’t panic and think it happened in transit!
Once your commission slot is confirmed, we will send you an invoice within a few days. The invoice email will also include my shipping address, paypal address, a link to the commission details form, and some important reminders.
The invoice looks as follows:
1. Cost of services
2. Cost of shipping from me back to you
Then you send your package to me, and we will let you know when it arrives. ^_^
UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED ON YOUR INVOICE, payment will be due 5 days after I send you an invoice. This will typically be within a week of you signing up for a slot.
a) The doll’s head (head-back is not required)
b) A face shield or equivalent protection (you can also purchase these from me if needed)
c) A printed version of your commission details form (see below)
d) Eyelashes, if you are providing your own
e) The doll’s eyes for the final photos
f) The doll’s wig if you would like me to match a specific eyebrow color
g) Please make sure the doll/head is packaged in a big enough box. I might repackage dolls that arrive in tiny or damaged boxes.
The application form is what you first send to me to apply for a commission slot (see above under “how slots are filled”).
The Commission Details form is found >>>HERE<<<
I request that you EMAIL this form to me, and ALSO include a PRINTED COPY in your package. This makes my workflow infinitely faster. ^_^
Please always make sure to include your shipping address on the commission form!
I won’t copy another doll’s faceup (unless you have permission from the owner), but it is totally fine to send me pictures of other dolls for reference. Things like, “I like this one’s eyebrow thickness” or “I like how the lips fade towards the edges on this doll” or “This one’s cheek color is lovely” are perfectly acceptable. ^_^
You can also include photos of real people, color swatches, drawings of your characters or anything else you feel will help me bring out your doll’s character.
There is a separate form to be filled out for fantasy parts, you can find it >>>HERE<<<.
If I have your doll in hand by the beginning of the month, he/she will typically be done by the end of the month/within the first week or two of the next month (exceptions would be big projects that take longer than 4 weeks). So overall, your doll will probably be gone for about 6-8 weeks from the time you send him/her to the time I send them back.
Please understand that once your doll is finished, it might be another several days before you receive pictures. Taking/editing/uploading photos is a separate work flow from painting, and I tend to do this for several dolls at a time so I can have some days just for painting and some for computer work.
2. Progress information:
I will update the “current slots” page as dolls arrive and get worked on. I will also sometimes update the Twitter feed as I go along. If you need specific info, you can always email me at email@example.com. We will also email you when your doll has arrived.
I do not typically do progress pictures of faceups, since I feel that it is hard to judge the overall feeling and impression of a faceup until it’s complete. For example, at least three layers of pastels go into it, and a certain level of depth and variation of color isn’t achieved until the last one. But if there’s a part that’s really important to you, like for example the shape of the eyebrows, you can request that I send you a progress picture. Please note that on your commission form.
If you are getting a mod done, I will always send you progress pictures to make sure it’s good to go before I start the faceup.
Once your doll is done, you will receive a collage that shows your doll from several angles so you can get a good impression of the work. If you are happy with the final result, please confirm your shipping address and we will send your package back to you asap! ^_^
Once a doll’s faceup is done, the only thing I can still do to change it is to darken colors, add freckles, stuff like that. But I cannot take anything away or make major changes.
Please know exactly what you want and don’t want. If I do a faceup to your specifications, and you change your mind later on (about color schemes, eyebrow shape, or other details), or you forgot to tell me that you did not want a certain element in your doll’s faceup etc., I will have to charge you again to redo it. I try really hard to do exactly what you want – and if you change your mind, I need to cover the extra time and materials. I will redo it once, otherwise I’ll get hopelessly backed up. Some things it is possible to change after the faceup is done, but those are few, so please be careful and know what you want beforehand. If the mishap is my fault (like I didn’t read your instructions correctly), I won’t charge you to redo it of course.
Please see >> THIS PAGE << for all info about shipping.
Unless you tell me otherwise, I may post the pictures I take of your doll on Den of Angels, in my online portfolio, on this blog, on my flickr account, or on my deviantArt account. I might also use them in my print portfolio. Not all dolls will be posted in all those places of course, but it’s a possibility. If you don’t want me to use your doll’s photo, please let me know!
Feel free to post the photos I send to you anywhere you’d like, your Instagram/flickr/DoA etc.. If you can please credit me, that’s appreciated. 🙂 All my photos have my logo on them, please don’t remove it.
3. Other photos of your doll:
I love seeing photos of your dolls all put together! ^_^ Feel free to send me pics anytime.
There is also a flickr group for AngelToast faceups here:
I might also ask your permission to use a photo you took yourself, to include in a portfolio book. I will never do this without your permission!